Sous-Vide Made E-Z

Can't make it to Per Se for Thomas Keller's "Cryovacked watermelon"? Or can't afford $8,000 for four days of sous-vide training? Just head to your nearest grocery store - and you too can have sous-vide - made E-Z!

Sous-vide is just the French term for "under-vacuum" - which is basically those boil-in-bag meals. The ones in the photo above are by legendary chef Joel Robuchon - only the cabillaud/cod is sous-vide - the accompanying ravioli are in a separate bag. The others are in disposable bowls.

But you don't need to come to France for sous-vide supermarket food. Ever try Stouffer's Chicken a la King? That's sous-vide too. I had it once - a memorably bad, bland, and flabby experience. But their Escalloped Chicken & Noodles - not sous-vide - is surprisingly good-eatin'. It's a buttery-breadcrumb topped frozen casserole - especially tasty with homemade, oven-roasted broccoli that you can bake at the same time - and then serve it all over fresh, hot white rice for a deeply comforting carb-induced bliss. But I digress.

I like sous-vide for some things - especially foie gras. It was interesting to learn from the article that the gastronomic use of sous-vide in France started at the Michelin three-star restaurant Troisgros for foie gras. In the past few years, I've cooked hundreds - maybe a thousand of those precious fattened livers - most of them sous-vide - in a steam oven. But sous-vide is not some futuristic be-all-end-all cooking - where I can plug in a raw liver, punch in some coordinates, and - voila! - perfect foie gras every time. No. Before those livers get anywhere close to getting bagged, they need to be deveined, seasoned, and prepped. I'm lucky to have learned a beautiful deveining technique at Ducasse - from a cook-friend who coincidentally worked at Troisgros.

For those racing to get their very own sous-vide systems or El Bulli TeppanNitro - or Alinea Antigriddle - I have an insider tip for you on the next big thing at El Bulli - they're planning on installing a bad-ass barbecue.

So with Stouffer's and Weber, you too can be on the cutting edge of gastronomic technology in your very own home.

Comments

[Michael]

Louisa - any chance you share the secret about the deveining technique?

[Louisa]

Michael - of course! It's no secret! Just not that easy to explain - will do as soon as I get a chance.

[Gail]

"bad-ass barbecue"...oh no! Must prevent dh from seeing this info. Otherwise it could result in massive expenditure of both time and $$$. Thanks L, I like that you always a bit of insider news to share.

[Eddie Neill]

We are using sous vide to aid in our development of sustainable and organic cuisine for the dietetics school at St. Louis University. It is great for preserving and reheating.

[Brett]

On my recent trip to Spain, I just bought a great book on sous-vide that I'm sure you're familiar with. It's La Cocina al Vacío by Salvador Brugués and Joan Roca of El Celler de Can Roca. They just came out with the English edition with a forward by Wylie Dufresne called Sous Vide Cuisine available for a whopping $168.95. The Spanish edition has lots of invaluable and very specific directions on this cooking technique. Love your site, by the way, and can't wait to read about your next adventures at El Bulli!

[Louisa]

Gail - sorry girl, I've got to go with your guy on this one - every home needs a great grill! OK - even the smallest Smokey Joe will do. ;)

Eddie - I'd love to read more about what you're doing! Can you share any website links?? Heck - I'd love to see what you're doing - especially if I can get some gooey butter cake while I'm at it!

Brett - thanks so much! I haven't seen the English version yet - is it different? Hey, remember back in the day when we thought 50 bucks was a lot for The French Laundry Cookbook! But that is a bargain compared to the $350 El Bulli book cover price!

[Gail]

I probably should have mentioned that we currently have no fewer than five grills! Oh, well...love that grilled food and will watch with interest to see what the cue-meisters at El Bulli get up to.

[Fatemeh]

Oy, Louisa, I was just saying that the best thing about my new FoodSaver (no jokes, please) is the possibility of cooking sous vide!

[Brett]

Louisa, unfortunately can't say I've seen the English version of the Roca book yet. Shelling out 99€ for the Spanish version already exceeded my budget for books on sous-vide for the year;D

[farmgirl]

Hmmmm. I got all excited while reading this because I realized that I have not turned into a Midwest country bumpkin but am still a hip chick, as just last fall I sous-vided an entire deer. But then I re-read your first paragraph. Am not a hip chick after all. I didn't actually boil up the deer--just vacuum sealed him. We pan-fry everything in homemade lard out here. . . : )

[Louisa]

Gail - FIVE grills? That is worrisome! And yes, I can't wait to see Ferran in a "Kiss the Cook" BBQ apron. ;)

Fatemah - no joke - I want a FoodSaver! Can't wait to read all about your sous-vide cooking!

Brett - at least the 99€ was way cheaper than $2000 a day!

farmgirl - sous-vide preserved pan-fried deer in homemade lard? You are not a hip chick - you are so far beyond that - you are like the Madonna of food hip-chicks! That is so incredibly cool my Midwestern sister!

[farmgirl]

LOLOLOLOL! That's the funniest thing I've read all month! I'm flattered (and literally unable to stop laughing). Oh, I'm so happy I think I'll defrost a hunk of venison, dig up some Yukon Golds from the garden, and start heating up a cast iron skillet of lard! : )

P.S. Oh, you must get a FoodSaver. You won't know how you ever lived without it.

[Louisa]

farmgirl - I'm so happy you're so happy - especially after all the happiness you've given me through Farmgirl Fare! OMG I want to read all about that venison with garden-dug Yukon Golds - in lard!! And yes, I'm gettin' me a FoodSaver soon.

[farmgirl]

LOL, you crack me up! While I have learned the art of frying up a mean hunk of venison (if I do say so myself), Joe is the Fried Potato King. He makes his special thinly fried homemade potato chips--just stands at the stove frying, salting, eating, frying, salting, eating. If you eat one, you'd better be ready to forget you ever heard the word 'calorie.' Too good.

Hmmmm. My mother and her beau will be here for a visit soon, and she always demands a fried venison dinner. She's also had said homemade potato chips. I suppose I could serve it for their welcome meal and snap a pic or two for you. In the meantime, you'll just have to survive on all that incredible ice cream over there. : )

P.S. Just in case there are any potato growing gardeners reading this, here's something very handy I discovered. You can leave your potatoes in the ground all through the summer. It is the perfect place to 'store' them. I just dig them up as I need to, and then dig up any that are left when it starts to get real cold.

P.P.S. Louisa, I hope this comment wasn't too long! All that talk about salt and lard just gets me going.

[Louisa]

farmgirl - did you say potato chips?? I am a hardcore potato chip addict! Everytime time I travel back and forth I carry with me at least three bags of my favourite brand I'm leaving behind! And are you telling me your Joe fries his potato chips in lard?? Picture nothing - I'm going to start mapping the route to your land! Thanks so much for your potato patch tip - someday when I have my own I will always think of you as I dig a stored summer beauty out of the ground. And are you kidding? Comments of very long length are especially welcome here - especially yours - and double that with salt and fat!

[farmgirl]

Oh, Louisa, I can always count on you to make me laugh. And there aren't very many people I would admit this to, but for you, well. . . we went on a little road trip a few weeks back and--not only did I eat more potato chips than I have in the past five year--but I brought an entire BOX of them home. (Which, sadly, is somehow empty already.) What can I say? When in Rome. . . or in this case, Cincinnati. They're Hussman's--and they're good. : )

Yes, I did not make that up. My Joe fries his own potato chips in lard. I think his eating record is three pounds of potatoes in one 'standing.' Needless to say, he doesn't make them very often.

Well, sadly, due to some unfortunate circumstances, I did not have a chance to make the promised fried venison and potato chip dinner for my visiting mum and her beau. Bum-mer. But there's still venison in the freezer, and just yesterday I was reminded by my 'supplier' that deer season is right around the corner and I'd better make room in the freezer. Yes, this girl gets her own deer every year--and it comes skinned, quartered, and delivered in a cooler. Am I lucky or what? (Although I have helped do all the 'dirty work' before--geez, what a time that was.) Guess it's time to dust off the Food Saver! (And I'm not the only lucky one. You've never seen a happier dog than one gnawing on a deer leg. . . OMG, I think I've lived in the country too long. Yep, I meant the bottom part of the leg with the fur and hoof.)

Hope you're eating well and not working too hard. Take care, and hopefully I'll catch up with you soon for the next installment of "From The Land Of Lard & Salt. . ." : )

[farmgirl]

P.S. Have just had brilliant business idea. Cannot believe PetSmart has not thought of this yet. You can readily buy (highly overpriced) pig ears and pig hooves for your deprived city pooch to chew on, right? Well, those rate about a 2 out of 10 on the Yumminess Scale. A fresh deer leg rates at least a 12. I figure all I have to do is go around to the local meat processors during deer season and collect the unused legs (four per deer!--and then seal them up with the FoodSaver! Fresh, unique, incredibly tasty. Okay, gotta go--need to locate phone number of Head Buyer at PetSmart. : )

[Louisa]

farmgirl - make you laugh? Like I've said, I'm just returning the favour! :) OK - Husman's - just googled them - gotta get those next time I'm in Cincinnati. I actually ask to fly through Cincinnati between Chicago and Paris - so I can get Gold Star in the airport! Three pounds of fried potatoes. In lard. Salted. I am duly impressed! That's some manly-man you got there! And now you know I have got to get a deer leg for my dog. She's already just about as happy as she can possibly be - and generously spreads her happiness around - but if there's any way I can make her happier I will. I think that's a brilliant business idea too. You know what she's currently addicted to? Bully stix. Better known as dried bulls' penises. Sign us up for your Deer Leg of the Month Club!

[farmgirl]

LOL I'll put you on the Deer Leg list! Ack! Never heard of Bully stix. People will sell anything. (Or is that, dog owners will BUY anything. : )

Been meaning to come over here and admit to embarrassment of spelling Husman's with two s's. Oops. I don't know Gold Star. This might be a good thing. Joe also has a soft spot for Husman's because when he was a young cub scout they went on a field trip to the potato chip factory. Apparently that kind of memory sticks with you. : )

I was this close to taking pictures in the supermarket of the rows and rows and rows of salty snacks in Cincinnati. It has got to be the pretzel capital of the world. And we're not just talking one kind from twenty different companies. No, 8 or 10 kinds from twenty different companies. I was in pretzel heaven. Which was almost as good as my giant box of potato chips. Oh, Husman's makes pretty darn good pretzels, too. In a variety of shapes and sizes of course!

Ahh! Midwestern food moment for this CA girl occurred on same salty trip. I learned about something that comes in a plastic container and is simply called DIP. Adds so much to the pretzels and potato chips. I would not admit eating two container of this stuff to just anyone. . . : )

[Louisa]

farmgirl - you've got a Dear Leg List going already?? Phew! I managed to get on in the nick of time no doubt! Those things are gonna be hotter than El Bulli reservations! Oh I can't believe you've never heard of Bully Stix. I guess your dogs have less unsavoury options than our city dogs. And yes, I as a dog person will buy anything - as evidence see my dog Karli's donation bag to dogs of Hurricane Katrina - full of nearly brand new toys she touched maybe once longingly at the store. OMG are you kidding me about Husman's?? I didn't even know they existed! What kind of self-respecting potato chip addict am I? (If you like I can edit out the typo. No one will ever know. ;) A field trip to a potato chip factory? That's the kind of perverse culinary educational thinking I like. What else? Visit to the chewing gum factory?? Oh yes, you must get some Gold Star - I'm a 5-way girl all the way. I must say while I love the salty snack food group that I'm not a huge fan of crunchy pretzels. But maybe "DIP" might sway me! Another great Middle Western food product of which I was unaware! Thanks as always.

[Ida Samson]

Just to let you know that the normal thing to do nowadays, when doing sous-vide on the cheap, is using Foodsaver to vacuum-pack the food, and use a rice cooker paired with a PID temperature controllers like SousVideMagic to cook. The results are surprisingly good!!