La Table Nutella & the Conticini Connection
One of the most elusive seats in Paris at the moment is at La Table Nutella - a temporary restaurant - yes, another temporary restaurant - hidden in plain sight in a quiet courtyard in the heart of the Marais. It's open for only 40 days - to celebrate Nutella's 40th anniversary - until June 22nd. Set breakfast and brunch menus start at a mere 3 euros - and all proceeds go to Reves - a charity that makes the dreams of sick children come true.
Now before the food snobs sniff off in a snit about Nutella, let me tell you my little f-f-foodie friends that the menu not only features your classic baguette, coffee, juice and free-for-all giant jars of Nutella - each with its own Patrick Jouin spreader - but also items from recipes created by master pastry chef Philippe Conticini himself. Monsieur Conticini had two ultra-stylish pastry shops here - Peltier - which were tragically closed by his Japanese investors a few years ago. He was the only pastry chef in Paris who could seduce me away from Pierre Herme.
I went late this morning and was turned away at the outer gate by a doorman/breakfast bouncer. He said they were full - but I used the Jedi mind trick and told him I would go see - and he said yes, I would go see. Thirty minutes before closing, 10 people stood between me and my Nutella - I was dead last in line. Ten minutes later, two girls gave up and left. Five minutes later, the hostess said there was a table for eight clearing and added sympathetically that it was unlikely for me. The eight skipped off to their big communal table. As they cleared the doorway, a lone empty stool appeared at the bar ahead. The hostess said I'd be seated as soon as the space was cleaned. I was in.
I had a Creme au Nutella dans sa coquille et sa mouillette de chocolat - a Nutella custard in the shell - yes, another egg shell - served with a dense, dark chocolate cookie to dip. Also a Crumble au Nutella - a hazelnut crumble topping over warm Nutella and spoon-soft slices of apple. And a Nutella cocktail - blendered milk, bananas, and Nutella.
The weekday menu is a bit more limited - with more items on the weekend brunch menu. Again - go - now - and early. I will be back.
La Table Nutella; 46 rue de Sevigne; 4th arrondissement, Paris; Weekdays 07:00 to 11:30, Weekends 08:00 to 15:00
Update 1: I was hoping to have more purchase information before I posted this but there apparently does not seem to be any at the moment. Also for sale at La Table Nutella is Philippe Conticini's new book - Sensations Nutella - for 16 euros. The first recipe is one for a miniature cotton candy - very much in vogue on Parisian restaurant dessert menus - with a dehydrated Nutella powder. I will post further information as soon as it's available. Yet another reason to go to La Table - even if there's nothing left to eat!
Update 2: Nutella newsflash! Philippe Conticini's Sensations Nutella will be released on 09 June 2005 - available at Amazon.fr, FNAC, Librarie Gourmande, and all major French booksellers. French only - no plans yet for an English edition.
You're lucky to have at least eaten something in here ! I went there on thursday and there was nothing left to eat (even bread was missing !). The waitress was exhausted by all the angry customers' remarks (she also implied that it was every day like that). She told us that the management knew there was a problem (150 visits per day and only food for 50...) but didn't planned to solve it. I don't know if it was true... and it seems that you succeeded in trying the COnticini's egg which may demonstrate that she might have been wrong.
By the way... I love your blog !
Cheers,
Frédérique.
Posted by: Fred | 28 May 2005 at 04:16
Anything baked in the egg shell itself is so wondrous to look at. I feel it is the most, "this one is for Me" feeling. So intimate a gift.
I like very much this idea of a temporary restaurant. If there are more of them might you grace up with photos of the overall look of such a mysterious idea?
I thank you in advance, and Yoda too.
Posted by: shuna | 28 May 2005 at 23:22
Damn!
How timely, as I'm am once again going thru a major Conticini obsession...
Two things I have to ask you, after first telling you that you are SOOOO lucky to be in that backyard!
I'm not a jealous person by nature but between pix of the Hermes stuff, reading about your restaurant and the delicous dinners and even brunch, now this...:-)
Thank Gawd you provide such a nice window into this world, can't thank you enough!
Ok, now on to the questions.
#1- Do you think the 'Sensations Nutella' book is only available at the rest.?
Or maybe is it a nationwide (France) release that I could probably get thru Amazonfr.?
I REALLY want this book, any info will be much appreciated.
#2- Did you get a Patrick Jouin knife yet? Are they any easier to get now?
#3- Are you guys at Crillon doing cotton candy?
And is it really all over the place in Paris?
What flavors are big?
Thanks again, Louisa, for all that you write, and all that you eat! :-)
Posted by: ted niceley | 29 May 2005 at 22:17
Have to add this, which I found 'googling'...
"Nutella Feelings", new work of the large pastrycook Philippe Conticini, will be there available as from May 23 for 30 simple but refined receipts (in the trade as from September).
Does anyone think that "in the trades" means a September release generally?
P.S. "Large"???
Does the press over there refer to people as "fat" or "large" often?
Maybe it means 'well known'...
Posted by: ted niceley | 30 May 2005 at 02:07
hi, you were lucky. You were honor of joining in a meaningful feast. Like restu du coeur, it allows us to think the plesaure of charity and its participation.
You merited tasting delicoius food amid the dogged perseverance.
Thank you for a live news
Posted by: chocopie | 31 May 2005 at 00:43
Fred - thanks so much - and I really had no idea just how lucky I was.
Shuna - yes, I too love eggshells - I have a small collection of eggcups - another reason why I had 10 moving boxes marked Kitchen. And yes, I promise more photos of the ephemeral restaurants in a separate post - I love the very idea of them too.
Ted - thank you so much for your interest! Some answers - the Sensations book is not available on Amazon.fr - will post more information soon. I did not get the Patrick Jouin knife - yet! Still the same deal on those. We are doing a cotton candy - tiny ones on sticks. We did them as a fraise des bois tarte garnish at ADPA too; we had a popcorn dust flavoured one at elBulli last season; and moto did a cotton candy garnish too. As for the big flavour - sweet and savoury - yuzu - which is kind of funny because I was seeing that all over LA a few years ago. And I'm guessing you googled the same book - and I'm further guessing they meant big as in popular too and not fat!
chocopie - YES - I strongly support Restaurants du Coeur - the French charitable association/Restaurants of the Heart - everyone please see the link on the left sidebar under Heros and Heroines - or go here http://www.restosducoeur.org
Posted by: Louisa | 03 June 2005 at 10:43
I have a soft spot for Nutella. When I was a kid, nutella on matzoh was about the only thing that made weekday lunches during Passover bearable...Who knew?
Posted by: magnolia | 04 June 2005 at 07:51
Nutella is my favorite condiment! Man, I really want his book, but too bad I can't read French.
Posted by: Jessica "Su Good Eats" | 04 June 2005 at 13:43
Louisa!
Thanks so much for that Conticini Nutella book update.
You've made my month!
Posted by: ted niceley | 07 June 2005 at 23:03
magnolia - who knew indeed that Nutella and matzoh could make such a comforting combination - I can't wait to try it!
Jessica - I think you could figure out the recipes - you know how recipes are - once you translate the basic words - sugar, butter, eggs - you're good to go!
Ted - you are so welcome - you unknowingly made it my mission to get that info on the book! I can't wait to read all about what you make from this book.
Posted by: Louisa | 08 June 2005 at 03:16